Taylormade Burner 2.0 Individual Irons 6, Regular, Right Hand Best Place To Buy

I’ve had much success with Diamond Tour Golf and Pinemeadow, and have heard good things about GigaGolf. Some of the stuff going around Ebay… I don’t know…

Just remember: physics doesn’t change because of a name on the sole. If you have two similar clubs and both have the same loft, weight and offset- they’ll perform the same.

Every individual Burner 2.0 iron boasts a different face thickness. The thinnest and fastest faces are in the long-irons, with the face in each successive iron growing thicker down through the middle- and short-irons. The thinner face, the higher the COR to promote more ball speed and distance; the thicker the face, the greater the feel.

Burner 2.0 long-irons combine an ultra-thin clubface for higher COR (1.8 mm in the 4-iron) with higher MOI. Relief at the rear of the sole allows the sole to play narrower. All of the above promotes more distance in the Burner 2.0 long-irons while making them significantly easier to hit and more playable.

Don’t listen to anyone that tells you to buy this brand or that brand. Just because they are the right club for them doesn’t make them right for you.

Now, if you took a blade and CB, each of the same loft, same shaft and grip, same flex, same swing weight (how heavy the head feels) and same total weight they will perform EXACTLY THE SAME on solid, centered contact. Loft and swingspeed determine distance (irons are 1/2″ shorter in descending order because it ensures the swing weight of each club is the same… that’s it) while face angle and swing path determines accuracy (lie angle becomes important as the club gets shorter).

Irons all take the same basic shape. It’s a function of what the consumer wants, because the “odd” shaped iron heads don’t sell. That means there’s really very little “wiggle room”. Yes, you can make the blade longer and/or thicker, but overdo it and people are turned off by it. You can have a hollowed out area behind the face (like the last Big Bertha’s), but based on personal testing that does NOTHING, similar to Taylormade’s “inverted cone” stuff… it’s just not big enough, due to restrictions, to have an impact.

Where am I going with this? You can buy whatever you d@mn well please, so long as you’re properly fitted. A proper fitting will help you make better, more centered contact. Instead of fighting the clubs, they’ll make your natural movements easier. No, it’s not a cure-all, but you’ll be in a better position more often than not to make a solid strike at the ball.

PS- don’t buy the “blades feel better” BS. Less than 5% of ALL the golfing population, whether it’s the PGA, LPGA, Nationwide, Hooters, or whatever tours, me, you and all the other amateurs, can tell a difference in a blind test. Sure, if someone knows going in that a blade is made of 1020 carbon steel, they’re going to think they’re feeling how soft it is. Don’t tell them and they can’t tell the difference between 1020 or 8620 (carbon steels), 431, 17-4 (what most Ping irons are cast from), or 304 stainless steels. Plain and simple. Besides, there isn’t a “magic” metal- that has nothing to do with it.

“There are 2 basic types of irons: Game Improvement Irons (Cavity Backs) and Blades. Cavity back irons are very forgiving and help players to hit the ball in the air and straight. Blade irons are what most professional golfers use, blades usually have smaller heads and are less forgiving/harder to hit, but their advantage is that they give more feedback and give more shot shaping ability (high and low shots, fades and draws).

Me personally, i have had the same irons, cavity backs, for the last 5 years, and during this period my handicap has dropped from 15 to 4. But i don’t think im ready to make the switch to blades just yet. However, my advice is that you test of a few sets of cavity back vs blade irons. If you can control the ball with blade irons then get them.”