Nike Victory Red Forged Wedge (Men’s Right-Handed, 56 Degree Loft, 10 Degree Bounce, Stiff) Dealnews

driver- 7.5-16 (depending on the model- some companies, like Titleist, refuse to go higher than 11)
3 wood- 13-15
4 wood- 16-17
5 wood- 18
7 wood- 20-21
9 wood- 24
2 hybrid- 17
3 hybrid- 19-20
4 hybrid- 23
3 iron- 20
4 iron- 24
5 iron- 27
6 iron- 31
7 iron- 35
8 iron- 39
9 iron- 43
PW- 47

The lofts of an iron set fluctuate by a degree or so. Generally, you can tell if a set is geared more towards “players” if the 6 is 31* and the PW is 47*; it’s a “game improvement” iron set if the 6 is 29-30* and the PW is 45-46*. The “player’s” lofts are more standard… the strengthened lofts of a “GI” set gives the impression that the golfer has picked up yards. While that’s true, the thicker sole and topline limit a persons ability to shape shots.

perhaps i only can help you decorate your golf ball.
but it is really fantastic.

I agree with the first answer.

maybe your teeing it down to low. Try going to a lesson/clinic its the best way to improve because we (ppl on YA) cant see your swing and tell you

try keeping you eyes on the back of the ball… i had the same thing happen to me… big ball mark right in front of teeing area… let your shoulder lift your head on the follow-through to see flight of ball… hope this helps, let me know!!!
“HIT ‘EM STRAIGHT”

you did not mention age .as we get older are swings speed change,using a little slower .sometimes you have to go to more loft and different shaft with a little more flex and kick
and of course a good teaching pro at a golf course or teaching pro at driving range .some pro shops,they can measure club speed

You could be moving your whole body towards the target instead of letting you hips fire ahead of your upper body.
The best you can do is to book in a lesson with you local pro, then you can be certain that you are getting the right information.
Good luck with your golf!

Sounds as though you are using the same ball position at address with the woods as you are with the irons. Could it be that you are placing the teed ball in the center of your stance ? This would indicate you are hitting the ball on the downswing. So play it just inside the lead foot a couple of inches and see if this solves the problem. If not move it a bit further forward and you should be hitting the ball on the upswing which should give you lift.

It’s hard to tell because you haven’t told us how much loft you get. When you say it rolls up to 190yards, do you mean it runs the whole way?

If it is running the whole way then you are thinning the ball or blading it (both the same thing)

Keep your head down.

I struggle with my 3iron and sometimes with mt 4iron.

Go to a local pro and have him take alook at your swing compared with your higher lofted clubs.

amatuer golfers find long irons hard, so I suggest buying hybrids to replace your 3,4,5 and 6. Go to a professional shop (in the UK, we have American Golf which has a launch machine).

Try out some different hybrids, because these have the backing of a wood and are stick hit just like you would swing an iron. They are more forgiving and easier to hit.

The only downside is you might find you hit them alittle shorter than an iron because they get more loft, where as a long iron stays low.

Another thing is that your longer irons might be the wrong size or something, its unlikely this is the case because your hitting 7iron fine.

If you really want to keep your irons then get a lesson with your longer irons and see what the pro says it wrong.

But do try out a launch machine with some hybrids to replace your 6,5,4 and 3.

Also try out some different sets of irons and see if you hit longer irons better with something else, you may benefit from custom fitted clubs.

Good luck

The 3 and 4 irons need to be struck with more of a sweeping motion than a short iron. Not much room for error; thats why they are tougher to hit. A 5 and 6 iron should be struck like your shorter irons; a descending blow, ball first. The oldest contradiction in most peoples minds is that you need to hit Down on the ball to make it go Up. Its true as hell.

A hybrid is a great weapon to have; I have a 20* Callaway Heavenwood and its wonderful for shots I would have used a 3-iron for.

One other thing to remember is to ‘pretend’ you are swinging your 9-iron easy when using long irons. Lots of people think “Long shot, swing hard” when just the opposite is true.

Its really difficult to help if we do not know all of the particulars…..lacking anything specific except a complaint about trajectory or distance I can only advise you to see a pro for their input and corrections to your problem or problems.

i think your more lofted clubs are like your nine iron not your three but i could be wrong

a) Get a hybrid or two (or three)

b) Don’t expect to hit your long irons high in the air–they will naturally fly lower than your other clubs

c) Keep your tempo smooth and slow, the tendency is to tighten up and try to hit them too hard.

d) Most important: don’t try to “help” the ball in the air. Hit DOWN on the ball, always trying to taking a little divot (or at least some grass) AFTER contact, and let the club’s loft do the work.

I notice I hit my long irons best when I’m into the wind or laying up, when I’m relaxed and not worried about trying to hit the ball so far. Just LET the club hit as far as it wants to, don’t force it to try to hit a specific distance.

Everything is related to physics. The speed and energy which you use to strike the ball is going to determine how far the ball goes. the weight of the ball and the angle at which you strike it plays a role too.

One of the more interesting applications of physics in golf is called “impedance matching”. This is a term used to determine what load a circuit should have (in electrical systems) or what mass (in a mechanical system–like a golf club) should be used to maximize the transfer of energy. You may have studied the fact that the internal resistance of a battery or battery system should be equal to the applied load to transfer the most power possible from the battery. The same is true in mass systems (like pool balls)…roll a ball of mass “M” toward another mass “m”. In an elastic collision, the energy is conserved (and momentum is ALWAYS conserved). If “M”>”m”, then the large mass will impart some energy to the small mass and both will continue to roll in the same direction…but energy is lost. If “M”<"m", then the smaller ("M") mass will bounce off the larger mass and come back toward where it started and still impart some energy to the smaller mass which will roll as a result of the collision (but some energy is lost). If the masses are equal (impedance matching), then the first mass will STOP and impart ALL its energy to the other mass which will "take off" with a velocity equal to the velocity of the striking ball (and ALL the energy will be transfered).

What does this have to do with golf?? A bunch!!

The new and really expensive drivers are designed to have "heads" that are roughly equal in mass to the golf ball. That way, ALL of the energy you manage to give that club is transfered to the golf ball and (hopefully) the ball goes a long way down the fairway toward the hole. This helps folks who are not as strong as Tiger Woods drive long off the tee.

That would make a good few slides and let you discuss energy and momentum conservation as well as "load" matching for maximum power transfer.

If that is too "fancy" (or advanced) for your particular course, you can discuss trajectory motion (using those 4 or 5 equations sometimes called "The FAB 4" or "Magic 4".

They are Vf^2 = V0^2 + 2*a*x
x=1/2 a * t^2 +V0 * T + x0
Vf=V0+a*t
and x=(Vf+V0)/2 * t

The club head travels with a certain velocity that now has two components...one vertical (Vsin(b)) and one horizontal (Vcos(b)) where b=the bending angle of the particular club ranging from 10 degrees for a 2 iron to 64 degrees for an X-wedge. Thus depending upon the club selected by the golfer a different range (distance) is expected (and different heights can be reached...to clear trees and other obstructions.

Another physics application to golf is an aerodynamic one. By applying spin to the ball (adjusting the plane on which you swing the club...OR BY DESIGNING THE CLUB FACE TO BE SLANTED left/right) a good golfer can actually hit a ball around a tree (same idea as a pitcher in baseball throwing a sinker or a curve ball).

The groove design is critical to imparting backspin to the ball (and you can find a bunch or magazine pieces out there in Golf Digest or Golf Tips magazine on U and V grooves.

Physics is involved in the placement of the center of gravity of the club (affects "feel") and the the MOI (moment of inertia...on which much is already out on the web...so I won't repeat that here).

The last physics term tied to golf clubd is the COR (coeficient of restoration). This determines how much the golf club face deforms during the strike of the ball and how much "push" it gives the ball as it bounces back...much like a spring.

There is TONS of physics in the design of the shaft and the balls (material science comes into play here, too).

I hope this gets you started.

--Fred