Well if you want the best just go with the taylormade tour burner for your driver and woods, titleist or mizuno for your irons and vokey wedges. but if you have your heart set on those companies then go with all titleist or ping woods and the rest titleist.

First off, if you’re just ~starting~ to save up, I would bet that by the time you’re done that there would be new clubs coming out.

What exactly is your question? The best thing to do is to go to a golf shot and hit them and see which ones you like better.

Great question. There are so many great irons available. I can only give you my opinion. You sound similar to me, at least in swing speed. If mishits are a problem, a set of forgiving irons, like a cavity back irons would be in order.

However, mishits are not a concern for me. I play a set of Taylormade muscle backs. I feel I can shape shots better with those. At my swing speed for irons (similar to yours), I play regular shafts. Also, I do steel shafts on my irons. I cannot get a feel for graphite shafts on the irons.

Again, my swing speed with my driver is similar to yours. My woods, are also Taylormade. I play a 9.5 degree R580 driver with a stiff shaft. However, for my 3 wood, I prefer a regular shaft (also a TM R580).

As for the hybrids, I cannot offer anything. I carry a 2 iron.

get stiff shafts for your irons and as far as woods you could use extra stiff or stiff shafts just look at what your ball flight would be and your length with both i would guess stiff would be better though.

no….. you should play driver, 3 or 4 wood 3 hybrid 4-pw irons 56 and 60 degree wedge not out of iron set and a good putter

no woods???
mine :

Taylormade woods 1
Taylormade irons (3-7)
Callaway pitching ( 8-10, AW, SW)
putter honma

you left it in the warter for too long

because they were made in japan

well you first of all shouldnt be cleaning them with water

they are made of metal and just like a bike will start to rust over time

if you are going to clean them with water do it every once in a while or y ou can go to a sporting goods store and buy some cleaner

the same thing happened to me and i had to buy new clubs

so i suggest to stop with the water and find a new cleaning substance

There are wedges designed to rust and create spin. I have never heard of an entire set designed to rust.

CMM is relatively new from Cleveland. It is possible that they do rust early. My previous experience with Cleveland irons is that they don’t rust. Generally, I think forged irons do rust easier.

I play with Cleveland clubs as well. My TA6 irons in 3-PW have no rust at all. The gap wedge and SW are rusty but they are supposed to because it enhances the surface for better spin. You may want to check with the store you purchased from if the entire iron set is rusting.

It’s not necessarily too big, but of course it wouldn’t match up with your other gaps and I know that doesn’t feel right to me either. Do they offer a 54*? Then you could go 48,54,60 and keep the 6* gap. Good luck.

I think you are looking at this in a very technical way and I think that’s good to a point.

I have a solution here that you may not have thought of…..you could simply grip down an inch on your nine iron and you could make the full swing and the ball will go shorter.

If you don’t like to play golf this way, then what I would recommend is to have the 48 bent to 46…it shouldn’t effect the bounce enough for you to notice it, then you can get the 50 gapper…..

OR … you can have your current wedges refinished and re-grooved….I believe golfworks does this….or golfsmith….one of the two…..

Good luck!

You don’t have club dilemma. You’re concerned about the number on the sole of the club. That’s exactly what sales and marketing wanted to happen. Congratulations!! Send money.

You could get your 9 & PW bent to what you want & buy a SW 56 , GW 52 LW 60 or 64 . Just bend them to what you want or learn how to 1/2 ,3/4 swing .other clubs . I have 46, 52 ,56 , 64 .they work great.

im tryin to figure out about the same thing, just have the 48 bent strong

Bag-Nike Stand Bag
Driver-Nike SQ2 Sasquach
3 Wood-Nike SQ2
5 Wood-Tightlies
Irons-Calloway X-20′s 3-PW
Putter-Calloway 2Ball
Shoes-Nike SP-5
Balls-Nike One Black

Golf clubs, golf balls, tees, divot repair tools, sunscreen, gloves, and a swing weight.

Driver: Callaway Fusion FT-5 Tour Neutral, 9.5* w/ Stulz LLC Nano Arrow 50 shaft, stiff flex.

3-Wood: Taylormade Burner TP, 14.5* w/ Aldila VS Proto 60 shaft, stiff flex.

5-Wood/3-Hybrid: Nickent 4DX Utility (in between a wood and hybrid) 19* w/ Grafalloy Epic Hybrid 70 shaft, stiff flex.

4-Hybrid: Adams Idea Pro, 23* (Not bent) w/ Grafalloy Epic Hybrid 70 (W/ Added lead tape, now 75 grams) shaft, stiff flex.

5-PW Irons: Mizuno MP-60, All lofts 1* strong, w/ Royal Precision Project X shafts, 5.5 flex (stiff).

50* Wedge: Taylormade RAC Black TP, 8* bounce, w/ True Temper Dynamic Gold shaft, S400.

55* Wedge: Taylormade RAC Black TP 56* (Bent to 55*), 12* bounce (custom ground), w/ True Temper Dynamic Gold shaft, S400.

60* Wedge: Cleveland 588 DSG (Dynamic Sole Grind) RTG+, 4* bouce (custom ground), w/ True Temper Dynamic Gold shaft, S400

Putter: Titleist Scotty Cameron Detour Newport 2.5, w/ UST Frequency Filtered Double bend putter shaft.

Grips: All my clubs (except putter) have Winn DSI grips, standard size. My putter has a Lamkin Dual Density Tortion Control grip, standard size.

Driver: Callaway ERC Fusion 9*
3 wood: Nicklaus (pretty old model, but steady)
HYbrid: Titleist 503.H 19*
4-PW: Taylor Made RAC LT (6,7,8 & 9 bent 2* strong)
Wedges: WAY OLD Nicklaus 52* & 58*
Putter: Nicklaus

Driver: Callaway, 9 degree
3-Wood: Golden Bear
5-Wood: Golden Bear
3-9 Iron: Nickalaus
Gap, Sand, Pitch Wedge: Ping I-3′s
Putter: Golden Bear

spent a ton on it.

all top clubs.. maybe should have went a little more on wedges and Irons.. but id play em

irons and wedges was a joke.. jus so ppl know

can you use them?
do they work for you?
are they suited to your game and your swing?
thats all that really matters

i like rac7′s the most.. i wanna get them

That’s solid

Hopefully if you own these clubs you know enough about them (and the game of golf) to know they are good clubs.

Cleveland drivers are great, top notch. Not a big fan of Odyssey putters, but many good golfers like them.

yes

My best suggestion is go to golfsmith.com and look at pre-owned (they are certified don’t worry) or go in to the store… they will sell you floor models cheap! I just went in to the one here in Chicago. I wanted the Adams A2 OS hybrid iron set. Normally 699… already on sale for 599… They only had one set left… floor model… sold to me for $ 450!!! By the way they only stock a few sets of all their club sets.. the guy told me that. Chances are you can get one w/ no worries or just ask to have the floor model. The clubs I bought were a Golf Digest top pick and have great pga pro reviews. I love em too.

Definitly go used clubs. I would probably shoot around the $ 200 mark. If you plan on playing for the years to come, that should get you some decent clubs without feeling like you have old clubs years down the road.

Only playing that much I would suggest you go with a decent set of cavity back irons. They are much more forgiving and easier to hit, especially if you only pick them up a few times per year. Find a decent golf shop in your area that will let you try before you buy. The one I go to has every club on their show room available to try, in the shop, so rain or shine you can try them all. Even if you have to drive a little ways it will be worth the trip. Try them all regardless of price and pick the ones that feel the best. By feel I mean grips, weighting, feedback at impact, etc. Once you have it narrowed down to your top three look at price and pick the ones in your range. A good set will last you a long, long time. I just recently purchased a new set after using my old ones for over 15 years. There was nothing wrong with them other than they were old technology and I wanted new. Well, that and I was tired of the stinging in my palms after a less than perfect hit. You should be able to find a good set for less than $ 300 that will last you until you decide if golf is something you love doing. At that point you will know what to do from there.

Don’t forget, you don’t have to buy what you try. Once you find ones you like go looking for them on the web, E-Bay etc. You should be able to get them for a lot less and you already know you like them.

Good luck and hope this helps.

$ 499 OR THERE ABOUTS FOR A SET OF CLEVELAND HI-BORE IRONS.

EASY TO HIT FOR A HIGH HANDICAP AMATEUR.

I HAVE A SET AND LOVE THEM. LOOKS LIKE THEY WILL IMPROVE MY GAME

No more than 500 is you golf only 10 times.
Maybe less.
Try under 400.

Yes, they both are good clubs. However, since it is out of your price range. I would suggest that you look into the Wilsons golf club. I believe they are cheaper. You can find them at Target or Wal-mart.

More than likely you need to be fitted for clubs, that is the best way to determine you swing speed and club lie. So if I were you I would go to golfsmith or PGA superstore and get fitted for irons.

Why dont you come to ordergolfonline.com to have a look, there are many irons on sale and free shipping, actually for the beginers, I recommened Callaway x-22 and Titleist Ap 2.

i ordered my custom fit irons, they took about a week to put them together. could take longer if you want them delivered or less if your going to pick them up.

I am not sure what the policy of the Achushnet Company is regarding direct orders from individuals. My irons were fitted and ordered through the country club pro shop, nothing special, and delivery was made in 6 working days from placing the order.You are buying a fairly expensive set of irons. You might consider a fitting before purchase.

Graphite is lighter which can add 5 to 10 yards. Graphite is good for someone who wants a little boost in their swing. Steel gives you more feedback. I prefer graphite now. The new graphite shafts are so much lighter, stronger, and just better. I think most tour guys are using graphite now or are switching.

Graphite is better used for people with slower swings it makes it liter so the have faster and fuller golf swing

Graphite shafts are usually longer and lighter than their steel counterparts. The only reason why they’re longer is to create the same swing weight (how heavy the head feels when you grip the club) as if there were steel shafts in them. It’s easier (and cheaper) on the manufacturers to do it this way, rather than spend extra man-hours/resources to make sure the heads are re-swingweighted (or totally retooled) to create the same desired effects.

Graphite does have a better shock-absorption effect than steel, which is why many seniors like graphite in their irons. The Sensicore insert can have the same effect (substitute those with small weather-stripping wrapped around a restaurant-style straw for a more economical alternative) for steel shafts.

It is possible that your new, graphite-shafted irons can have the same swingweight as your old steel-shafted ones. However, switching to the lighter graphite will make the overall weight of the club lighter, possibly leading to more distance. There’d probably have to be some extra work on the heads and/or counterbalancing done to make sure the swing weight stayed where you want it- otherwise, it could make the head too heavy, screwing up your swing. Keep in mind, though, that it takes about a 30 gram difference in shaft weight for you to see anything close to a measurable gain in distance output.

the burners.

The only correct answer is whichever ones you hit better and like more. They are both excellent clubs. I know people that play either ones and they both swear theirs are the best irons theyve played. Before you buy, make sure that graphite is right for your swing though. Especially with irons, there is a huge difference between the results from steel to graphite. If your swing is regular to fast (accurately judged by a proper fitting), you would be better off with steel shafts. If you need a lot of help getting the ball up in the correct trajectory, go with the graphite. Either of these club sets come in both.

to me the sumo’s are the best, but thats me

graphite

hello,
here is the thing. graphite shafts are pretty good, but steel shafts are even better for your irons. if you notice, all your old people and women have graphite shafts for the irons. this is because they don’t have enough swing speed to hit the ball far, so they go with graphite because it is a lighter material for them to use.

With steel, it all depends on your swing speed. I have taylormade R7 irons with a stiff steel flex for my shafts. A good shaft that you can try is called a project X 6.0 stiff flex, Great shaft. i used to play it and loved it. When i first saw it, i thought it was a graphite shaft, but it was steel.

Their are a lot of shafts out their that are steel and look like graphite. I would recommend going to your nearest golf course or golf store and researching them before you buy anything.

hope this helps

graphite

By your pic, you don’t look like a female or a middle aged man. That’s typically whom graphite shafts are made for(people with slower swing speeds). There are exceptions of course. You should have been playing with steel shafts all this time. There’s no fluke about it. Steel provides more control on iron shots than graphite, especially if your swing speed is fast enough for a steel shaft. Switch as soon as possible and you’ll hit the ball the way you want.

Graphite is for slower swing speeds. Steel is for faster swing speeds. Best thing to do is to go get fitted if you are buying new irons. It will be very helpful in the long run.

Depending on how quickly you want them, try eBay, I always find the best prices there. I did a quick search and found 5 sets of regular, not stiff, but if you can be patient, I bet a set will show up within a week or so

This is a good place to shop used clubs. good luck http://www.globalgolf.com/.

You could probably find one off of ebay, they ship fairly fast and at a decent price

did you try golfsmith.com?

There is no rule. Most people and pros play the ball a little bit in front of the center of the feet. Whatever makes you be square at impact.

Directly below your eyes is a good rule of thumb.

Put the ball in the middle of the stance with your eyes just hovering over the ball. Dont place the putter directly behind the ball because you will usually tap the ball which cost you a stoke. Put the putter head about an inch behind the ball which will allow your head to be looking more centered at the ball. Push your hands forward a little bit and dont look up during the putting swing. A good drill for this is to do a normal swing return the putter to where it was at the beginning and then look up. Hope this helps.

If you forward-press the shaft before starting the stroke, play the ball an inch or so forward of center in your stance. If you don’t, place the ball directly under your nose at address.

Like it was mentioned earlier- there isn’t a hard rule on it. That’s where experimentation comes in.

It’s all about feel, personal preference, and your putter type. I have a Odessey White Hot #9 and I play it slightly back in my stance for some forward press. You want your putter face to be perpendicular to the ground when you set up.

There are many things that can cause you do hook the ball and blade or chunk a shot. Club being on of them, if you want to start getting better, go to a free fitting session at your local golf store, or course. Your clubs set up your entire shot, so having them be the correct size, and angle is important. You could also find out where the apex of your swing is so you know where to line the ball up just by getting a fitting.

Clubs will not magically make you a better player, but if they are ill fitted, they can most certainly make you play worse. For example, if the clubs are too upright, a ‘good’ swing will produce a slice. If that player did not immediately get their clubs fitted, they would then try to change their swing to fix the slice, and actually make their swing worse.

Fitted clubs are actually more important for low level golfers than better golfers. A golfer with a good swing can more easily change the flight of the ball, or just ‘play’ the bad ball flight. A bad golfer will not necessarily get better immediately, but they will be able to learn to play well much faster since the clubs are not the problem. You will be able to more easily isolate your swing problems, and produce more consistent results.

You might as well throw the Walmart driver away. You may have happened to find one that suits you well, but driver specs are so sensitive to the individual player, if you can’t hit it well it tells you nothing about your swing. If you want to save a little bit of money, buy a fitted 3 wood or even hybrid and learn to hit with that until you can save up some money for a fitted driver. Chances are you will be able to hit a higher lofted club further than a Walmart driver anyway.

I think your question title and your actual question description has a little conflict.

Anyway to answer the club length – YES club length is important as it affects the lie of the club, poor lie means poor contact between the club face and the ball at impact. Tall man playing woman length club will suffer on the down swing. But after getting used to then he can still hit it well. I have played with my wife’s ladies set and it is too whippy and the lie is not correct.

As for your question on low end club for poor hitter, it is swing that matters most and since you have a poor swing andy type of clubs will do. It doesn’t mean if you go out and get a 2000 dollars set today and you can play like a pro. Practice the swing plane theory on your swing and get better first then change to a higher quality clubs.

RAM makes good beginner set but the quality is some how quite inferior compare to better brands and that explain the broken woods. But you can reshaft the broken woods at golf fitting shop and probably you can ask for “pull-outs” shaft of good quality but comes cheaper.

Club length is important . So are club face angles as they relate to the ground. Are you tall with an upright swing? Are you shorter and reach for the ball ? Buying better stuff will not improve your game without proper club fitting. Your shaft flex and swing speed are also deciding factors. So find out which pro in your area is considered the best or better club fitter, seek out his advice before investing, It will result in a more enjoyable golfing experience and more satisfactory results.

Yes, good clubs help you get the most out of your game (with exception maybe to the putter, that’s more about confidence than cost). However if you don’t have much game yet, you would probably get a lot more out of lessons. Either with an instructor, or if you are one of us do-it-yourselfers, try to limit your practice time to one or two things. Too much all at once can be a swing killer.

In the meantime, whatever clubs are comfortable will do fine. When you decide to spend some cash on good stuff though, get fitted. It makes a difference for any level golfer.

Also, here’s a drill that really helped me when I first started. Use any iron and make small half swings back and forth, without actually stopping. The path the club head makes above the grass as it travels makes it much easier to see the bottom of your swing arc as well as where you’re squaring the club face, which makes it easier to find the right ball position too. Hope this helps, good luck.

I’ve tried the Squareback, Newport 2, and Newport versions of the Studio Select. The Squareback is a face-balanced putter and I like the feel. The Studio Select line has a great feel, very soft. I hope you like it!

i think your gonna love it more than you expect. i have both the fastback and the squareback and love them both. the squareback lines up very easily and the ball seems to roll amazingly off the face. the feel is amazing and the putter is quite forgiving. the sleek look is also a plus.

here is testimony from my pro, whos played just about every putter you can imagine: “Bottom line, looks good, feels good and performs well. It’s a keeper and it’s in the bag.”

good luck this season, you have quite the putter in your bag. hope you make some birdies with it.

Using a wood or a hybrid for a very long putt is fairly common. Using an iron and chipping while on the green is not acceptable. (Should a member of the grounds crew see you do such a thing, he’d probably take your club and put a divot in your forehead!!!)

Nah man, that doesn’t sound to good. Maybe you should try and invest in a chipper (or as we call it in texas, “texas pitching wedge”) It’s a lot like a putter except w/ a very slight loft. They are very handy for the fringe and other situations.

The rules allow one to chip on the green of the golf hole that they are playing. If you are on a green that you are not playing you may lift and move your ball off the green no closer to the hole. You can chip a ball without taking a huge divot if you are an accomplished golfer.

If you profess to be a golfer you haven’t read the section on etiquette as it applies to the game. Rule # 1″ Leave the course in better condition than you found it”. Taking divots on the green does not conform with this rule. It is gauche to even think of ruining a putting surface which is being used by others. At our club such action is a week’s suspension. Second offense is cancellation of membership.

You certainly can, the question is really whether you should or not. I wouldn’t make it a habit, but it would be ok in extreme circumstances. Just make sure you replace the divot and completely repair the area.

Yes, in a one-to-one ratio. Strengthening (lowering) the loft decreases the bounce; making it weaker (higher) increases the bounce. So, if you go from 58 to 56, the bounce will go from 8* to 6*. This would likely be bad, since a it sounds like you’d be left high-and-dry for sand shots. The bounce, coupled with the sole width, helps it extricate the ball from the sand; decreasing it decreases the club’s effectiveness for that type of shot.

It is possible to change the bounce by grinding the sole, but it takes a lot of work and patience. You’ll change the club cosmetically (if that’s a big deal is up to you), but you’ll also effect other things. The weight of the head will be effected; not only will this effect how it feels at impact, but it’ll change the swing weight (how heavy the head feels while it’s being swung). Too much weight taken off can also effect how the shaft flexes- another feel killer.

If the head is forged and you grind it, you’ll strip the chrome plating, increasing your risk of having the club rust. I think it’s a cool look, but it has NO influence on playability. Some people, however, don’t like the look… so it’s another one of those “could go either way” things.

at one point in my ealy playin I had a 64 wedge..till i learned that i was trying to have specific clubs for specific shots instead of using existing clubs for multple shots…Like professionals do..the simple fact of todays golf equipment..it is making it easier for a avg player to hit a ball strait..but with the advaced tech come a comprimise..the lessoning of a actual skill to hit a golf ball..So..if we continue the path..golf will be like Rodney in caddyshack were u just press a button and the club does all the work for you…

Spin is caused by good contact with the ball. Play the ball slightly back in your stance. and just hit it well…..the spin will come naturally

Just hit down on the ball. If you hit it solid you won’t be able to help it from spinning.

get under the ball

Spinning the ball is easy. First line up the ball a little to the back of your stance. On the down swing the club should hit the ball on a downward motion. Meaning the divot should start at the front of the ball not behind it. If you take a huge divot where the front of the ball was then you hit it right. Just make sure you replace it.
For more close up shot set it in the front of your stance and swing. Finish the follow through half way.

Try using more wrist in your swing.

I know the Nickent Arc 56 deg wedge has a 10 deg bounce and I would suspect the GH is the same. The difference is in the manufacturing process of the club head.

i love my 56. my coach told me everyone should have a 56 its the perfect club from around the green

well good question. I would look at your yardages,if there are gaps in them a gap(52) might fill those yardages in..more importantly it depends onthe course(s) you play might require a gap wedge. eg. crown greens etc.plus if u have short yardages into greens cause ur a long hitter or play off shorter tees..Not a bad thing to have a lot of,wedges that is and depending how serious a golfer u are,add/take out certain clubs for certain courses. Help that helps you out

I wondered the same thing…. Since my PW is 48 and my LW is 60; I decided to get a 56 and have it bent to a 54….. Now I have 6 degrees of loft difference in my wedges… 48* 54* 60*… I am currently happy with my wedges…

Personally my wedges are my scoring clubs. So I think the more the merrier. I have a 60*, 56*,51*, and a PW (~48*).

Of course I don’t have a 5 woods.

I would say if you are at 12 keep both. There is no reason to swing really hard with 56 when you can hit a smooth 52.

Just my two cents.

I have a 48, 51 and 60.

The gap wedge is perfect around the greens for me. I can open the face of it and play it like a sand wedge when needed. Or I can close my 60 degree face and play it like a sand wedge.

I would take a 52 over a 56 any day because of that reason…..but it is down to what you feel you need. Wedges are your scoring tools, so why not drop a wood and take both wedges in the bag?

Everybody is different. I know a golfer who doesn’t have his 48 (PW) instead he has 52, 56 and 60.

Your going to have a gap in your clubs somewhere so considering the 52 and opening the face slightly when wanted a little more loft, or playing more towards the front foot.

My suggestion would be to go to golfdigest.com

There they have a lot of simple lessons, not only for bunker shots, but for many shots you may find yourself faced with around the golf course.

EDIT:

http://www.golfdigestchallenge.com//register_gd.php

If you go to that link, you can register for the golf digest challenge. Not only will that keep record of your scores and give you a short game and long game handicap, but it will help to identify the weak parts of your game and give you tips accordingly (including several on bunker shots).
While you do have to register, it is Golf Digest Magazine’s site which is highly trustworthy and will not send you loads of spam.

I presume you’re talking about a greenside bunker.
A 56° SW is perfect for greenside bunkers. That’s why it’s the standard loft for a SW.
A 56° SW is not intended to hit 75 yds, like from a fairway bunker, although, if you can pick the ball cleanly, it’s very possible.
Most SWs have a “bounce” or a “flange” on the bottom of the club. The larger the “bounce” the more the club will “bounce” up and lift your ball; but you MUST open the clubface to be able to take advantage of the “bounce”.
In most bunkers, you DO NOT want the leading edge of your club to cut into the sand. You DO NOT want to “scoop” the ball out of the bunker. You DO want the club to “bounce” UNDER the ball causing the ball “splash” out of the bunker.
So, you MUST follow through with your swing!

Anyway, that’s how it’s supposed to work. After practicing a few times, it’s not really THAT difficult to execute.

I forgot to mention, your swing s/b a descending blow about 2-3 inches behing the ball. Your swing s/b more “V” shaped rather than “U” shaped. As your club hits the sand, it will “bounce” up under the ball, thus, never actually touching the ball. Ball should come out with little, if no spin.

Very Very carefully. You take the 56 out of your hand and switch to a 60* wedge. Open your stance, open your club face, aim 2inches behind the ball, swing down, outside in path, accelerate, keep your head still, and there it is. If you really HAVE to use a 56* wedges, follow the same steps, just make sure to hit more sand, and plan for more roll.

Open the club face wide open . Most importantly keep your forearms and elbows together. I discovered this on my own one day while trying to figure out how to be a good bunker player. I never hit a bunker shot without thinking of this latter thought. I have the reputation of being one of the best bunker players at my club. Of course I practice it alot because it’s fun when you do it right time after time, even holing a few out from time to time.

Greenside bunker? Do not make contact with the ball. The club is to slide underneath the ball through the sand. You will hear a “THUMP” when you do it correctly. You will hear a “CLICK” when you don’t.

Look at the shaft, more than likely the Tour driver is extra stiff or designed with someone who swings the club at a very high speed (110miles per hour-130mph)

about $ 300 !!

well assuming they have the same shafts the difference obviously isn’t the size so what is it? I don’t know but my guess is trajectory the tour probably has a higher center of gravity for a lower ball flight the regular driver has normal trajectory that probably goes a bit higher.

other than a ton of money, i am not quite sure. i am a 14 year old that golfs frequently. i have the callaway x460 and it is awesome. i can hit it up to 275-280 if i hit the center of the clubface and it seems to go fairly low with a lot of roll. so if you are looking into getting one i would suggest to buy it. it is well worth the investement. the only negative i really have to it is the sound it makes when you hit is square. it really does sound like a brass band is playing.

Performance wise they are going to be very similar, go with whichever one looks and feels better to you. Personally I’ve been a Callaway guy a while, but Cobra has really stepped up their products in the last few years.

The Cobra S91 is a good club and if you are willing to spend the extra money, the Pro version i awesome. I am personally a Ping fan and after I got my G10 went from driving around 225-ish to almost 300 yards. I had a 460cc am driver before but a 75 yard difference is awesome. The Diablo driver has a very ugly sound; I am on the golf team and a kid I played with had one. The S91 will also increase your swing speed because Cobra has recently focused on increasing swing speeds to increase distance. The Diablo is focusing more on a larger club head for more forgiveness and workability while allowing you to smash the ball almost anywhere on the face and get distance out of it. I recommend going to a golf shop and trying them both out. I think that the S91 will be your pick. I also recommend trying other brands. I don’t know how much you are willing to spend but the Ping G15 is a step up from the G10 and it feels amazing. The Taylormade Burners have had a major price drop since the R9 came out and those are also very good clubs. The R7 is relatively cheap and was second only to the G10 on the Golf Digest Hot list. The Cleveland Launchers are good clubs and are the lightest drivers on the market. I hope this helps.

ok I cannot comment on the cobra as I can only dream of owning one . I have hit the diablo and would say that its shaft isn’t as long. So straighter is achievable. Shorter shaft the more likely it is to be accurate , but with less clubhead speed less distance. I hit a friend’s and would not own one myself. Its way to clubhead heavy and the sound wasn’t pure (in my own opinion). But thats with my swing and I’d bet yours is different . Go to your local range and have em tape it up and hit away, you may like it, but hit all the drivers in your price range with no bias to a brand name , the results will surprise you!

I got a Cobra S91 for Christmas….minimum 30 yards a drive more than my past drivers. It just explodes off the club. It has a coolest sound too…hehehe

I have callaway big bertha diablo driver , it plays well . stable and far …:P

Mainly just the material that they use to make it and which affects the club head speed.

In that respect the Diablo is better in my opinion.

Most 460cc driver heads nowadays are the same, they are maxed out in terms of size and (cor) spring effect in the face that is legal.

Average forgiveness
average sweet spot size
cure your slice, no
max distance depends on you…

Think of it this way, the shaft is the engine of the car the head is the car style.

Get something you like the look of and get the shaft that fits your swing speed and choose your desired ball flight.

If it says “Big Birtha” it was probably made in a sweat shop in China by a seven year old.

http://www.tgw.com/customer/category/product.jsp/SUBCATEGORY_ID/14658/refScid/1086/sattr0/Gender/sattrVal0/mens Diablo Edge

http://www.tgw.com/customer/category/product.jsp?SUBCATEGORY_ID=14660 Diable Edge Tour

Aside from paint scheme, the Edge Tour has a hosel, whereas the “normal” Edge doesn’t have much of one. This means the center of gravity will be a more towards the crown, depending on how heavy the hosel is. If you have no problems getting the ball in the air, this could give you some workability. The Edge Tour has a 1* open face, the Edge has a square face; this means the ET will have 1* less loft when it comes into impact properly, possibly leading to longer drives (though 1* won’t be that big of a deal)- but it might lead to accuracy issues, as well. It looks like the ET has a true Aldila Habanero shaft, while the Edge’s seems to be a proprietary Habanero, but it doesn’t really say for sure. The ET comes in half-degrees (9.5, 10.5, etc) while the Edge has straight lofts (9, 10, etc.).

To correct an earlier poster – a driver with a hosel not only relocates the CoG higher in the club (which promotes a lower ball flight), but also (and perhaps more importantly) to the heel of the club, and thus giving the club more of a draw bias, compared to a hosel-less model.

The big difference, to me, (other than the obvious hosel differences), is the shaft upgrade to the Aldila shaft ($ 60) – which has got to be better quality and cost more than the stocker.

YES!!!

Putters are worth there weight in gold only if it is comfortable to you and you are confident with it. That is the key to putting!!!

If you have a good putting stroke the putter brand and model is mainly in your head. It’s a thing of confidence. Try out several at a golf shop. If you don’t NEED a new one check on ebay for a slightly used one.

yeah
thats accually a really good price for a putter

white hot

I guess you could say that white hot is softer than the white ice. White ice is built to be firmer because of the softer balls people are going to use with conforming equipment. But if you’re not a really good golfer yet, you should just get one with high moi and one with the confidence and feel you desire.

I don’t know about cheap but they all perform well. It is just a matter of personal preference, that is why they give the player so many options. It is a case of you trying a few and picking the one that suits your eye and has a balanced feel that compliments your stroke.

The top putter from oddyssey is the white ice so look into that one but it is probably not cheap unless you get it used.

great ad you’ve placed here!

I get my clubs from goodwill! 3 dollars a piece!

huzzah!

You can get it at a cheaper price. check it here: http://www.golfshopping18.com/category.php?id=152

I got my putter for less than 100 bucks. Pricing depends on the manufacturer and the style of putter. A Scotty Cameron putter will cost more than that. 170 bucks is still more than I would pay for a putter. You can get a good putter for 100 bucks or less IMO.

With the White Ice model coming soon, there should be a price drop coming for the WH XG. $ 170 is actually middle-of-the-road (which doesn’t mean it’s right, however)… Ping has Karsten Series putters for $ 70 (great putters, from what I’ve read); Titleist’s Scotty Cameron models go for $ 300.

prob under 150..?

Since the course is most often hard and fast with packed sand, I would go with a lower bounce so you can stay under the ball. And since short game is the most important aspect of your game (53% of your scoring) 3 wedges and a pw is what you should have. I have some MP11′s and I think Mizuno wedges are way better than Clevelands. If I were to get new wedges I would get some Scratch wedges, though.

What he said!

Loft will affect the ball’s flight, height vs distance. Just as a 3-iron’s lower loft will create a lower, longer flight than the higher-lofted 9-iron, a 46º wedge will go further and lower by design more readily than a 60º wedge.

Bounce is a measurement in degrees of the angle from the front edge of a club’s sole to the point that actually rests on the ground at address. Course conditions (softer, loose sand & high, dense rough vs. compacted, hard sand, for instance) as well as how you swing the club are important factors here. Players who swing their wedges steeply into impact need more bounce. Players who sweep through and undercut need less bounce.

For a detailed explanation of bounce (with pictures), check out this blog: http://blog.hirekogolf.com/wordpress/?page_id=137

The best thing to do when picking out any new club is to get your hands on as many demos as you can. Just make sure the clubs you get cover a good range of lofts and are spaced out; you don’t want to get 3 wedges between 45º and 50º, you’d be better off with a 46º, 52º and 58º (for example) to provide for a better variety of shots.

Best of luck!

To answer the second part first….know your own swing and normal playing conditions. Ok….Lets talk about bounce. If you have a steep approach to contact…and you take large divots…….You should play a wedge with a higher bounce…say 12 or 14. This will hopefully shallow out your divots because the clube will glide more than it digs. The drier your playing conditions the less bounce you will need.(more in the 10 range) Lofts are based on specific distance needs and comfort levels. Most folks play a sand wedge in the 54-56 degree range. and a Lob wedge in the 58 – 60 degree range. A normal Lob will have a Bounce angle of approx 8 degrees. Hope I did not muddy the waters up too much. Fairways & Greens

You are asking this question as a novice. At this point neither loft or bounce should be a worry. The emphasis is on how well you make contact with the ball normally. Once you have mastered contact, then worry about loft and bounce. Loft is built into the club ( PW, SW, GW ) and the club should match the set you own.

Are you playing from sand or grass and if grass is it Bermuda or links grass? From sand or Bermuda grass one needs bounce as well as loft. On links courses you only need bounce on the sand wedge, and even then, not more than 8 or 10 degrees; and the gap-wedge 4 or 6 degrees, as the pitching or lob wedges,

Depends on whether or not they are player’s irons or game improvement irons. Also when they were made is important too. Today PWs are typically 10 irons and not used for pitching at all. In Taylormade’s Burner set that has killer distance the PW is 45 degrees. That is the same as most 9 irons. The average is probably 47 or so. Older the wedge the higher the loft, better the player the higher the loft, Game improvement or so called “long” iron sets the stronger the loft.

In game improvement sets, about 45 degrees. In Better players’ sets, it is usually about 47 degrees (for example, the Titleist AP2 irons, Victory Red irons, etc.) .

If you buy it separate, they are almost always 48 degrees.