they are made of metal and just like a bike will start to rust over time

if you are going to clean them with water do it every once in a while or y ou can go to a sporting goods store and buy some cleaner

the same thing happened to me and i had to buy new clubs

so i suggest to stop with the water and find a new cleaning substance

CMM is relatively new from Cleveland. It is possible that they do rust early. My previous experience with Cleveland irons is that they don’t rust. Generally, I think forged irons do rust easier.

I have a solution here that you may not have thought of…..you could simply grip down an inch on your nine iron and you could make the full swing and the ball will go shorter.

If you don’t like to play golf this way, then what I would recommend is to have the 48 bent to 46…it shouldn’t effect the bounce enough for you to notice it, then you can get the 50 gapper…..

OR … you can have your current wedges refinished and re-grooved….I believe golfworks does this….or golfsmith….one of the two…..

Good luck!

3-Wood: Taylormade Burner TP, 14.5* w/ Aldila VS Proto 60 shaft, stiff flex.

5-Wood/3-Hybrid: Nickent 4DX Utility (in between a wood and hybrid) 19* w/ Grafalloy Epic Hybrid 70 shaft, stiff flex.

4-Hybrid: Adams Idea Pro, 23* (Not bent) w/ Grafalloy Epic Hybrid 70 (W/ Added lead tape, now 75 grams) shaft, stiff flex.

5-PW Irons: Mizuno MP-60, All lofts 1* strong, w/ Royal Precision Project X shafts, 5.5 flex (stiff).

50* Wedge: Taylormade RAC Black TP, 8* bounce, w/ True Temper Dynamic Gold shaft, S400.

55* Wedge: Taylormade RAC Black TP 56* (Bent to 55*), 12* bounce (custom ground), w/ True Temper Dynamic Gold shaft, S400.

60* Wedge: Cleveland 588 DSG (Dynamic Sole Grind) RTG+, 4* bouce (custom ground), w/ True Temper Dynamic Gold shaft, S400

Putter: Titleist Scotty Cameron Detour Newport 2.5, w/ UST Frequency Filtered Double bend putter shaft.

Grips: All my clubs (except putter) have Winn DSI grips, standard size. My putter has a Lamkin Dual Density Tortion Control grip, standard size.

all top clubs.. maybe should have went a little more on wedges and Irons.. but id play em

irons and wedges was a joke.. jus so ppl know

i like rac7′s the most.. i wanna get them

Cleveland drivers are great, top notch. Not a big fan of Odyssey putters, but many good golfers like them.

It is possible to change the bounce by grinding the sole, but it takes a lot of work and patience. You’ll change the club cosmetically (if that’s a big deal is up to you), but you’ll also effect other things. The weight of the head will be effected; not only will this effect how it feels at impact, but it’ll change the swing weight (how heavy the head feels while it’s being swung). Too much weight taken off can also effect how the shaft flexes- another feel killer.

If the head is forged and you grind it, you’ll strip the chrome plating, increasing your risk of having the club rust. I think it’s a cool look, but it has NO influence on playability. Some people, however, don’t like the look… so it’s another one of those “could go either way” things.

Of course I don’t have a 5 woods.

I would say if you are at 12 keep both. There is no reason to swing really hard with 56 when you can hit a smooth 52.

Just my two cents.

The gap wedge is perfect around the greens for me. I can open the face of it and play it like a sand wedge when needed. Or I can close my 60 degree face and play it like a sand wedge.

I would take a 52 over a 56 any day because of that reason…..but it is down to what you feel you need. Wedges are your scoring tools, so why not drop a wood and take both wedges in the bag?

Everybody is different. I know a golfer who doesn’t have his 48 (PW) instead he has 52, 56 and 60.

Your going to have a gap in your clubs somewhere so considering the 52 and opening the face slightly when wanted a little more loft, or playing more towards the front foot.

There they have a lot of simple lessons, not only for bunker shots, but for many shots you may find yourself faced with around the golf course.

EDIT:

http://www.golfdigestchallenge.com//register_gd.php

If you go to that link, you can register for the golf digest challenge. Not only will that keep record of your scores and give you a short game and long game handicap, but it will help to identify the weak parts of your game and give you tips accordingly (including several on bunker shots).
While you do have to register, it is Golf Digest Magazine’s site which is highly trustworthy and will not send you loads of spam.

Anyway, that’s how it’s supposed to work. After practicing a few times, it’s not really THAT difficult to execute.

I forgot to mention, your swing s/b a descending blow about 2-3 inches behing the ball. Your swing s/b more “V” shaped rather than “U” shaped. As your club hits the sand, it will “bounce” up under the ball, thus, never actually touching the ball. Ball should come out with little, if no spin.

Bounce is a measurement in degrees of the angle from the front edge of a club’s sole to the point that actually rests on the ground at address. Course conditions (softer, loose sand & high, dense rough vs. compacted, hard sand, for instance) as well as how you swing the club are important factors here. Players who swing their wedges steeply into impact need more bounce. Players who sweep through and undercut need less bounce.

For a detailed explanation of bounce (with pictures), check out this blog: http://blog.hirekogolf.com/wordpress/?page_id=137

The best thing to do when picking out any new club is to get your hands on as many demos as you can. Just make sure the clubs you get cover a good range of lofts and are spaced out; you don’t want to get 3 wedges between 45º and 50º, you’d be better off with a 46º, 52º and 58º (for example) to provide for a better variety of shots.

Best of luck!

If you buy it separate, they are almost always 48 degrees.