- Maximized Distance A lower, deeper CG is designed to make the sweet spot more accessible at lower impact locations. This generates longer, more consistent distance and improves accuracy for more greens in regulation.
- Set Options There?s more distance through the entire bag by opting for matched hybrids in the set where women begin to struggle with their irons.
- Smooth Turf Interaction The Solid Impact Sole is designed to mitigate the effects of heavy and thin shots and improve the impact location on the face for greater distance.
- Enhanced Feel and Performance Callaway Golf core technologies like VFT, S2H2, a 360-Degree Undercut Channel and Modified Tru-Bore work together to maximize distance, feel and playability.
Callaway Golf Diablo Edge Irons, Set of 8 (Right Hand, 3P, Graphite, Regular) Discount
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These irons are the longest stainless steel irons we have ever created and provide increased distance without compromising feel or performance. The lower, deeper CG makes the sweet spot more accessible and is in-line with where amateurs most commonly strike the ball on the clubface, generating longer consistent distance and improved accuracy.
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Graphite does have a better shock-absorption effect than steel, which is why many seniors like graphite in their irons. The Sensicore insert can have the same effect (substitute those with small weather-stripping wrapped around a restaurant-style straw for a more economical alternative) for steel shafts.
It is possible that your new, graphite-shafted irons can have the same swingweight as your old steel-shafted ones. However, switching to the lighter graphite will make the overall weight of the club lighter, possibly leading to more distance. There’d probably have to be some extra work on the heads and/or counterbalancing done to make sure the swing weight stayed where you want it- otherwise, it could make the head too heavy, screwing up your swing. Keep in mind, though, that it takes about a 30 gram difference in shaft weight for you to see anything close to a measurable gain in distance output.
here is the thing. graphite shafts are pretty good, but steel shafts are even better for your irons. if you notice, all your old people and women have graphite shafts for the irons. this is because they don’t have enough swing speed to hit the ball far, so they go with graphite because it is a lighter material for them to use.
With steel, it all depends on your swing speed. I have taylormade R7 irons with a stiff steel flex for my shafts. A good shaft that you can try is called a project X 6.0 stiff flex, Great shaft. i used to play it and loved it. When i first saw it, i thought it was a graphite shaft, but it was steel.
Their are a lot of shafts out their that are steel and look like graphite. I would recommend going to your nearest golf course or golf store and researching them before you buy anything.
hope this helps
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Age or gender shouldn’t have anything to do with it, many a Tour pro has experimented with graphite shafted irons and some used them with success. It’s misinformation spread by the unknowing that perpetuates the myth that they’re for slow swing speeds.
The same kind of crap was being said back when most men used steel shafted woods, and now look at what dominates the metal woods everyone plays – graphite.
While it’s viewed that steel shafts are more consistent, and why so many tour players prefer them, the primary advantage of graphite shafted irons over steel is the shock absorption they offer.
The other thing is that graphite shafts tend to degrade over time, the epoxy used to bind the layers of graphite sheeting together breaks down, so being as your set is over 6 years old I’d be thinking your shafts are just getting old and tired. Steel hangs in there literally forever.
i use steel irons i find them great too use….but it depends on the player
steel irons are significantly better
Steel because the irons find the ground in the release process and the driver doesn’t.
One isn’t inherently “better” than the other. What works for me won’t necessarily work for you, and vice-verse.
Graphite can be lighter. This will bring the static weight (total weight) of the club down while allowing the swing weight (how heavy the head feels) up, resulting in a club that can be swung faster and still feel good. Graphite also has natural vibration dampening abilities, and can have its torque values tinkered with: a litle higher torque (resistance to twisting on miss-hits), it’ll feel softer; more torque, it’ll feel stiffer than what the flex rating says. Companies only make their graphite offering longer because it allows them to maintain the same swing weight between those and the steel offerings- it’s WAY too expensive to retool the molds (or have seperate molds) to make heavier heads.
Steel can be heavier, but Apollo and True Temper both offer 75g and 95g shafts. Steel, because of the unitized material (all the same) can’t have it’s torque changed- it’s a byproduct of its stiffness. Steel also doesn’t dampen vibrations, but you can buy or make inserts for that.
There could be other forces at work here. Length and lie angles have a bigger effect on efficient impact than shaft material. If you’re graphite shafts (which are probably longer than your buddies steel shafts) are too long for you, you’ll have trouble with bringing the face to square at impact. Sometimes, if things are timed right, you’ll hit a good shot; other times, who knows where it’s going?
I’m interrupting myself to explain lie angles here. Grab your 9 iron and hold it so the grooves are perpendicular to the ground. See how the face points at your target (get some putty or Play-doh and a straw- stick the putty on the face and insert the straw into the putty for a clearer view)? Now, lift the toe up- do you see how the face points to the left, assuming you’re a righty? The reverse is true if you lift the heel up. The higher the loft, the more important lie angles become (the lesson is easiest to observe with a 9i or PW, because of the high amount of loft), because the shaft bows during the downswing less with the shorter shafts. If the lie angles aren’t right for you, even if you hit it so pure you feel it in the base of your skull you won’t get a good result… unless you’re making ill-advised compensations for it.
Trading your graphites for steel can be a good idea, so long as you’re properly fit. If you like your current clubs weight, there’s workarounds for that. Point is, get fit for length and lie angle (might as well do grip size, while you’re at it) first. From there, you can hash out the rest of the details with the fitter to find what material is best for you.
Graphite is a lot lighter and will allow you to generate more swing speed and probably greater distance. I hit my graphite clubs about one club longer than my steel shafts. But, my steel shafts are far more accurate. I find I hit a lot more greens in regulation using my steel shafted irons than I do with my graphites. Since accuracy is far more important than distance for most people, I choose the steel shafted irons most of the time. You will NEVER see a professional or a low handicapper using graphite irons for this reason.