Callaway Diablo Octane Tour Driver (Men’s, Right-Handed, 9.5 Degree Loft, Project X Tour Graphite Shaft, Stiff) Coupon Codes

No , a friend of mine has one and he has a messed up swing hitting the ground first sometimes plus hitting ball all over face.. The driver is holding up well with no problems accept for a poor player. using it.

I own one and it is awesome. I have around 100 mile an hour club head speed. I average around 250 yards. My club seems to be just fine. I purchased an I-mix model. I so far have had no problems. My husband who hits the ball alot farther than me has played a couple of full rounds with it as well. He put it to the test, and if it can hold up to a man 6’3 who hits the ball 330+ I think the club is pretty darn solid. Hope this helps.

Most likely the ones that come apart , are the ones that people misuse after screwing up their tee shot. You know bashing it on something hard in a fit of anger

Nobody’s perfect. It is possible to have the face come apart- but it doesn’t qualify the club as “junk” across the board. But those rejections are almost always a rarity. Until R2-D2 and Data (from Star Trek: TNG) start making anything, there will always be possible imperfections in the manufacturing process.

People have also had the FT lines come apart when having the shaft replaced, or not too long afterwards. The lack of a hosel (the “tour” version has one, for what that’s worth) makes swapping shafts a nightmare, unless HeatShield is applied to it… and not everyone does that.

Unless one is a tour professional who is making a living with his clubs, technical information will be of little use to the average golfer. Sounds good when talking a good game but of little use when playing it.

I am not sure of the kick points and torques for each, but the RCH 55 is 5 grams lighter than the GBB60. You should just check Callaway’s web site for detailed specs.

The Callaway FT-9 with the Mitsubishi Rayon Fubuki Light Flex would probably be a very good club for you. It’s a lightweight shaft that is meant for a slower swing speed. The FT-9 is also a very good club as far as feel is concerned. You should have a lot of workability with this club.

Here is a link to purchase one if you are interested:

http://www.callawaygolfpreowned.com/mitsubishi-rayon-fubuki-60-i-mix-shafts/shafts-fubuki-60,default,pd.html

Hope this helped!

Any driver head will do you well, its the shaft, more particulary the flex of the shaft, that would probably be the determinig factor. Go to a Golfsmith or Golf Galaxy, etc. and test some out and see which works for you.

The new Diablo Octane would be a good choice. The head is made with a light weight composite material to increase speed and distance.

The shaft and loft are the most important things to consider. The stock “senior” flex shaft should be a good choice for you.

The loft is very important as well. You want to make sure you have the correct loft for you when paired with the senior flex in the shaft. You want to make sure your ball flight is penetrating off of the club head but still reaches optimum height to get the most distance out of your swing.

There are 2 ways to go about it. Try to find a local range or golf course that is hosting a Callaway demo day in your area so you can hit all of the variations and get advice from the Callaway club rep in the process. You can also find a golf pro in the area that deals with Callaway and have them give you a custom fitting. Either way, you will end up with a better club for you than just guessing.

Hope it helps.

They’re all good. I’ve tried (and still own) the FT-3, 5 and 9. I put the same shaft in them and other than sound and looks, they performed the same (they were all the same lofts and weight-schemes). Any of these models will be good, so long as you’re properly fit. Don’t go in and assume you need an “A” flex. There are NO STANDARDS in shaft flex, torque, or bend point- so that “A” you pick up off the shelf might actually be an “L”, or even an “S”!

Choosing the model is only going to consist of which one you like to look at, which one sounds the best to your ears, whether you want a “draw” or “neutral” weighting, and how much you want to pay. From there, it’s about getting properly fit. Do you consider yourself a very good ballstriker? If so, you may be able to handle a 45+ inch length… if not, look to go <45". Making solid, centered contact is of the utmost importance- there's no reason to game a club you MIGHT max out one in twenty times (with all the rest acting like Captain Kirk) when a shorter driver will put you long AND straight.

Honestly, all of this- length, loft, flex, grip/grip size, swing weight, etc.- will be taken care of by a fitter. It's a little extra (some even waive the fee if you buy from them), but if you want the unquestioned best for your game, go this route.

Here is information on the following drivers:

http://www.golfrewind.com/showthread.php?t=26183

In my opinion, I believe they will change the way the game is played off the tee. These drivers are supposedly ultra-forgiving and it is very hard to slice or hook the ball of these faces. Only time will tell how good the technology is though. I, honestly, can’t wait to try one.