Adams Golf A7 Irons, Set of 8 (Men’s, Right-Handed, 3-PW, UST Axiv Core Senior Shaft) Amazon Sales Off

de burners r better

tour burners all the way

Jesus christ!
You guys are not golfers.

The ‘best’ (which is a 100% subjective term, by the way) irons are the ones that put your ball consistently closest to the hole. Not the coolest ones. Or the most/least expensive ones. But the ones that fit you and your swing most comfortably.

burners

Burners.

Mizuno mp 52. The most forgiving blade irons in the game. Workability with forgiveness

Bridgestone’s J36 Combo irons are decent. Cavity back 3 & 4, a muscleback-like head for the 5,6 & 7 and straight forged for the 8,9 and PW.

You really can’t go wrong with any brand of forged irons, so just get to a place you can demo as many as possible and go from there. Once you get your fitting specs and an idea of what clubs you like best, even if they’re from different companies, go online.

If you go to a site like TGW.com, you can basically mix & match any brand, or within brands- and you can have them custom-fitted using the specs the fitter gave you. There, you can basically build your own perfect set out of whatever you want… and things can stay consistent because you can have the same shafts an grips added to any brand. Say you want the Titleist AP2 3 & 4, but you like the ZB mid irons (5,6 & 7), and the Callaway Tour Forged short irons… you can do that if you want.

Probably not.

Standard club bending machines are set up to adjust for loft and lie only. It’s complicated but adjusting for draw bias would require a twisting of the shaft in relation to the club face. Loft and lie simply require a bending of the shaft in relation to the club head. EACH AND EVERY time you bend a club (forged or cast) you risk breaking the club. The process is easier if the clubs are forged, but none the less the risk still exists.

In short you are better off buying a new set.

Typically the draw bias is a result of the weighting of the club heads which is not something that can be bent to neutral. Unfortunately, the only way is trade them in for a different set. You can also get a preowned set for much cheaper and still use your old clubs as trade ins if you go to a store like Golf Galaxy.

Before you go to the trouble of buying new clubs you should understand that the draw bias is the result of heel weighting on your irons to enhance gear effect which tends to close the face at impact. To counteract the heel weighting simply put a little lead tape out toward the toe on the back of your irons and see what effect this has on your ball flight. An inexpensive solution to your problem.

the draw bias is called the offset and you cant really have that bent out. it is part of the clubhead…put there when it was forged and you cant really get rid of it. if you want an opinion that actually might help you though, you can call the company reps and see what they have to say.

I’m an advocate for going to your local pro or your local golf specific retailer and getting fitted. It’s money very well spent and although alot of golfers are fitted to an off the rack set, you may be one of the many who could gain a lot in your game by truly getting fitted. With that being said, I’m a huge advocate of the Titleist AP-1….granted I’m, biased in my opinion as I own these irons, but I love them. They’re crazy long, the trajectory is nice & high, you can still work it and they’re very forgiving as well. Best of luck you in your search…..go get fitted! You’ll thank me later!

okay im going to give you a full answer based on all the info you have provided..I agree i thnk you have out grown the fatshafts,nothing wrong with them but its time to move forward..buy a good USED set of golf clubs–forged! Reasons why i say this,your 16 you are going to get better and stronger and most likely change again. Forged because im pretty sure you are serious about your game,you get better feel from forged and you will be counting on your muscle memory more and more as you get better. Forged clubs are softer therefore the ball stays on the clubface a little longer equals more feel. Do your homework when you purchase used clubs make sure they arent fakes and they are in good working condition. Check shafts too make sure they aren’t bent. If they are in good working order then get them scratches and small chips are just cosmetic has nothing to do with the performance. And will save you money. As you get better you will know when to hang on a certain set or not. GL.

As young as you are, getting a set of older forged blades makes sense as it will allow you to work the ball more. Newer cavity backs are for old guys like me. Try a set of McGregor 985′s. They are still a sought after classic, and a lot of college golfers who can’t afford the Titleist forgings, end up hitting the 985′s.

You can never go wrong with a set of Ping eye 2 square grooves either.

I got a set of taylormade r7′s they’re pretty sweet

titlest ap1 for cavity backs or titleist ap2 for forged

none of them because it is a matter of opinion and how YOU play with them.

Go to a pro shop with a machine and try out the irons. You might find that none of them are any good for you.

Use this site from a shop in the UK called American Golf and see how personal fitting can help your game.

http://www.americangolf.co.uk/american-golf-personal-fitting/

I’m not saying get personal fitting but I do think it would benefit any and every golfer. What I am saying is each iron set is different and this might affect you, where as it could affect me in a different way

I’ve played them both. I had the silver scot 845s for a long time. The two clubs are similar in style, but I think the Pings were actually more forgiving. If I did it again I would have gone with the Ping Eye 2. Those are classics.